Example: if your distributor is now using the 15L slot, you can reverse the weights and use the 10L slot. Restrict the total advance the distributor is capable of by reversing the weights (if it's a stock Autolite distributor), so the more narrow advance slot is being used. Either dial the timing back halfway to where it was before and repeat the driving test If the car pings, or "rattles" then you have two options. When you give the throttle a slight nudge if you don't hear the rattling of detonation, and if the car accelerates smoothly, then I'd say you are OK and the car will benefit from the bit more initial advance you have provided. Then lock everything down and go for a short ride, up a slight incline. With the vacuum advance plugged, advance the initial timing to 12 degrees BTDC. I don't think you need to isolate the efi from anything. (Long silence, followed by more silence). Ok, listen to to what I know about these aftermarket efi systems: I'm now very close to the 8 degrees, I'm guessing about 10 to 12, for a total including vacuum of 22 to 24. The gauge remains high with more initial advance, but the correct amount is right at the beginning of that high point. I put a tee in the manifold vacuum line and hooked up a gauge, then slowly advanced the distributor until I got the highest reading. So I went "old school" and timed it with a vacuum gage. Setting it to zero, the strobe flashes erratically making the timing marks ahead of my fat TDC paint mark impossible to read. The problem is that my "dial back" timing light doesn't work with the multi-spark capacitive system. I know exactly what the problem is- the timing retards with the drop in engine vacuum, so I need a little bit more initial advance. However I got a bog during light acceleration when cold so had to tweak the initial timing. This converts the system from inductive to multi-spark capacitive. I then added an MSD 6A control box and the car ran even better when warm. I have a matching Blaster coil so in this configuration is an inductive type spark. So essentially I have 20 degrees initial advance at idle. If you need a new alternator or other charging system parts, you can shop our selection of replacement alternators, car batteries, and starters to find the parts you need to make your repair.I recently upgraded my ignition to an MSD distributor with a vacuum advance and the car ran well at 8 degrees initial advance (vacuum plugged) then adding in the 12 degrees vacuum advance powered by full manifold vacuum. If you're not sure whether your alternator is the source of the problem, check the tension of your belts to make sure the alternator is spinning while the engine runs, and stop by your local O'Reilly Auto Parts where we can test alternators on or off of your vehicle. If you notice that your headlights dim when using your power windows, or if your battery just won't stay fully charged, it may be time to replace your alternator or other charging system parts. Your car might die, but you might be able to restart it with a jump start or by recharging the battery to park somewhere safe. When the alternator loses capacity or fails, the electrical systems of your vehicle will only stay on until the battery's reserve charge has been depleted. Over time, the internal windings and brushes of the alternator can wear out or become contaminated with grease or oil, and this can keep the alternator from producing adequate voltage for recharging or operation. The alternator is driven by the engine belt and may be controlled by the engine computer or voltage regulator to prevent overcharging. The alternator recharges the battery to restore power that is depleted during starting and keeps the electrical accessories on your car powered while it is running.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |